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Euphoria, the HBO boyhood ball created by Sam Levinson and produced by A24 and Drake, absolutely isn’t the aboriginal aerial school-focused ball to hit television screens, but it is arguably one of the best accurate aback it comes to the brands beat by its casting members. For instance, McKay (Algee Smith), the superstar athlete, and the bounded biologic banker Fez (Angus Cloud), are both addicted of James Jebbia’s Supreme. As the alternation moves forward, added beneath the alarm labels like Peels, CNY, Aries, and Sci-Fi Fantasy additionally accomplish cameos on basic appearance Rue Bennett (Zendaya) alongside a deluge of best items, Polo, and more.
The woman amenable for the abundant streetwear access in Euphoria is Heidi Bivens who continues to body on her already-impressive resume. She’s additionally helmed apparel architecture for Jonah Hill’s authoritative debut Mid90s, and has frequently formed with polarizing administrator Harmony Korine on films like Spring Breakers and The Beach Bum, the closing of which has a decidedly arch wardrobe.
Ahead of Euphoria’s division one finale, we allege with Bivens about what inspires her process, how she sources all of these brands, some of her admired appearance moments from the show, and more.
(This account has been edited and abridged for clarity.)
How did you originally get your alpha as a apparel designer? I went to Hunter Academy for filmmaking, and it’s allotment of the New York University. I consistently knew that I basic to be complex with filmmaking. I ahead in the alpha I wasn’t absolutely abiding how. I knew that I basic to be complex with storytelling. I was additionally absorbed in fashion, and aback I was in academy I formed at magazines (W, WWD, and Paper) accomplishing bazaar alteration and styling. It aloof seemed like a accustomed alteration to go from one to the other. To be able to assignment in appearance and apperceive the history of fashion, but additionally assignment in the apparel apparel administration on a film. To get my anxiety wet, I would be on set and amount out what it is I basic to do with film. And again I aloof absolutely enjoyed it.
What has it been like alive with Sam Levinson on Euphoria? What is his ascribe on the wardrobe? He writes apparel cues into the script, and again based on his aboriginal eyes for the story, I’m able to array of accumulate what he’s attractive for. Then, I present affection boards and references for what I’m thinking, and the administration that I aimlessly ahead we should go in, and he gives me feedback. Sometimes he has actual specific account about a character, and added times it’s chargeless administration for me to appear up with the aback adventure and the attending and present it to him. So, it’s array of a case by case base with the characters. Already we got into cutting and he was writing, producing, directing, he absolutely aloof trusted me to bear what he was attractive for.
It feels like with Euphoria you begin a way to advertise Gen Z appearance about perfectly. How important was it for you to advertise such an accurate representation? Because there’s been a lot of boyhood dramas over the years, but none of them absolutely feel like they absolutely did it the appropriate way. I bethink absent to beacon bright of annihilation that acquainted like what I call, “ABC Family teen.” I was accustomed the abandon and the abutment to absolutely advance it. I was asked to advance it. By that, I beggarly aloof not arena it safe and not accomplishing annihilation that was all-encompassing or bartering looking. It started from the top, from Sam [Levinson] giving me that authorization to absolutely aloof accept no rules and to do whatever I anticipation was appropriate for these characters. I’m not abutting to teenagers at this point, but I still feel like a kid. I like to ahead that I can chronicle to adolescent people. I accept a lot of adolescent friends. I assignment with a lot of adolescent people. For me, I ahead I am still in draft with adolescence culture, and I ahead I apparently consistently will be. I was able to tap into article that I wasn’t alike necessarily acquainted that I was accomplishing it. I aloof did what aimlessly came to me. I like to ahead that it’s because I still feel like the kids. I still feel like I’m a teenager.
What was your action like to antecedent these pieces? My accomplishments in appearance has accustomed me the adeptness to be cool acquainted of aggregate that’s activity on in agreement of streetwear and fashion. I didn’t pay as abundant absorption to aerodrome or aerial appearance on this accurate appearance as I’ve done with some added projects I’ve formed on in the past. I ahead as a stylist or as a apparel designer, aback you’re alive on august projects, it’s nice to accept a abundance of assets and attending beneath every rock. I aloof accept this adeptness to absorb that affectionate of advice over time. Some bodies can bethink the basic of every state. I can apparently bethink the artist who did every accumulating for every appearance casting or every aerodrome accumulating aback I was old abundant to pay absorption to that stuff. I aloof kept application that affectionate of advice naturally.
I ahead aback the appearance came up, it was aloof about activity through that rolodex in my academician of what would assignment for anniversary character. Some of that came from analysis that I did while we were prepping, accomplishing the abysmal dives on Instagram, and award out about adolescent designers and brands that I hadn’t heard of before. Then, additionally affairs from references, and brands, and sources that I had acclimated in the past, whether it was an beat or addition blur I’d formed on. Bodies alike accomplished out to me who heard I was alive on the appearance and showed me their stuff, and fabricated me acquainted of brands I wasn’t acquainted of before. It was advancing from a lot of altered directions, but I ahead overextension the net absolutely advanced helped actualize article that can hopefully feel new. You’re not aloof arcade at Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom. I ahead aback [costume] designers who are accomplishing avant-garde shows stick to actual specific assets that are readily available, like the administration food for example, alike a Barneys, a lot of bodies who are absorbed in appearance can watch the appearance and say, “Oh, I apperceive that shirt,” or, “I’ve apparent that.” I ahead that was one of my basic objectives. I aloof basic to appearance bodies article alpha that was alarming that they couldn’t necessarily consistently define area they had apparent it before.
One of the aboriginal things that I noticed aback watching the aboriginal adventure was characters like McKay and Fez in Supreme. Rue wore a Gosha Rubchinskiy tie-dye shirt in the aboriginal episode. Stüssy additionally ancestor up. Was there a acquainted accommodation to accept some of these acclaimed streetwear brands? Sure. Supreme is such a domiciliary name at this point. I bethink aback I aboriginal appropriate putting McKay in a Supreme sweatshirt for the aboriginal episode, Sam [Levinson] pushed aback a little bit because he anticipation maybe it was too big-ticket for addition of his socioeconomic background. I was quick to point out that Supreme is affordable. That’s one of the abundant things about the brand, and why they’ve been so successful. They still accumulate the clothes affordable so that anyone who has a minimum allowance job and doesn’t accept a huge overhead, they can still allow it. They can allow a T-shirt. They can allow a sweatshirt. You can additionally get that being secondhand. With the Gosha T-shirt, in my mind, Rue isn’t necessarily activity to go to a Barneys and buy a Gosha T-shirt, but she could accept aerial it off addition at a party. She could accept begin it in her friend’s car. She could’ve gotten it at a austerity store. In my mind, I consistently had to rationalize how addition could accept a fashionable account of accouterment if it didn’t necessarily accomplish faculty on paper. Rue wears a Proenza Schouler tie dye T-shirt. We begin that T-shirt for $35 at the Bearded Beagle in Los Angeles. So, alike admitting that T-shirt apparently retails for maybe $160, maybe less, we begin it at a austerity store. In my rational mind, I’m like, “Okay, this could be believable because if we can acquisition this in a austerity store. She could’ve begin it in a austerity store.”
Certain characters additionally abrasion abate brands like Sci-Fi Fantasy. Zendaya wore the Peels button-up aftermost episode, and the casting absolutely concluded up restocking the shirt this week. Did you appetite to accomplish abiding to spotlight these lesser-known brands? Both those brands I accept in, and I like what they do. Jerry Hsu, who owns Sci-Fi Fantasy, is my abettor apparel artist Kat Danabassis’ husband. Alike if I didn’t apperceive Kat, I’d be acknowledging Sci-Fi. I aloof adulation what Jerry does. It’s so simple and so smart. I’m consistently aloof attractive for brands that feel appropriate for the character. If it’s addition I accept in already, again that’s aloof a bonus.
Does your action alter depending on the character? Is it fun to comedy about with anniversary specific character’s arc? I would say it differs, but primarily because of how abundant advice I was accustomed from the alpha for anniversary character. Barbie Ferreira’s appearance Kat, for example, I knew that she was activity to acquaintance this arc from the beginning. With some characters, like Sydney Sweeney’s appearance Cassie, we were acquirements about her arc as we would accept anniversary script. With Hunter Schafer’s appearance Jules, aback I accustomed the aboriginal brace scripts, it was appealing bright based on Sam’s autograph that she was meant to be this candy-colored anime array of unicorn character. As we accustomed added scripts, it became bright to us that her arc would absorb not defective delight and accepting from these types of men and boys who she would accept these one night stands with. She became added self-empowered, and could attending to herself for that affectionate of adulation and absorption added on like self-love. So, she chock-full bathrobe as beautiful and fem. Added characters don’t accept such a affecting arc. Nate is array of the amateur appearance who we all are accustomed with. There wasn’t that abundant to do with him in agreement of cerebration alfresco the box. We bare him to be that guy that we all array of apperceive as the quarterback. With his awful behavior, we were able to actualize article alpha and new, but in agreement of the way he dresses, he’s array of the archetypal aerial academy male.
Do you accept a specific character/outfit/episode that you enjoyed administration the most? It’s the aftermost one. The finale, I think, is activity to hopefully draft some bodies away. Like if everyone’s been adequate the appearance so far, it’ll be the blooming on top.
Other than the finale? I mean, there’s so many. Halloween was because Sam wrote all those apparel into the script. I ahead some of the actors and actresses were a little anxious that a adolescent bearing wouldn’t apperceive who they were declared to be because some of the references aren’t necessarily like Gen Z-ish.
Like the Bob Ross costume? Yeah. Alike like Alabama Worley, or Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver. So, there were some suggestions that came aback from the casting about, “Well, maybe could I be this? Or what about this,” and Sam was actual clear. He had a audible eyes about who he basic anybody to be dressed as for Halloween. So we ashore with that, and I ahead it was a huge success. I was absolutely afraid how abounding adolescent bodies got it. Bodies adulation that Bob Ross. That was like everyone’s favorite. That’s Sam’s brain. He is a genius. He makes me attending good. It’s not clashing alive with Harmony Korine. Harmony writes all the apparel cues into the script, and again I’m interpreting it. It’s a allowance already you assignment with admiral who accept such ablaze minds and don’t put the reins on their account and storytelling.
Have you paid absorption to the accession that the appearance has gotten for its wardrobe? Accept you noticed how abundant bodies affliction about what these characters are cutting from adventure to episode? Yeah, it’s been appealing wild. I don’t ahead I advancing the affectionate of acknowledgment we’ve been receiving. I maybe should have. But aback you’re accomplishing the job and you accept this crazy agenda you’re aloof aggravating to accumulate one bottom in advanced of the other, and get the appearance fabricated the best you can. You affectionate of accept blinders on, and it’s adamantine to ahead what’s activity to appear afterwards you’re done. I consistently believed in the appearance from the beginning, abnormally afterwards I saw the pilot episode, alike afore it was clearly best up. I consistently knew that it was article special. I get affectionate of affecting alike cerebration or talking about it, but to be complex with a appearance that’s assuming these characters for adolescent bodies to see on camera, it’s absolutely aberrant and it feels absolutely acceptable to be complex with a activity like this that can inspire. Hopefully, it’s activity to pave the way for a lot added characters who adolescent bodies can chronicle to, to be in films and television to advice alpha chat about absolute issues that bodies are ambidextrous with, and actualize a safe abode for those conversations.